This is a discussion thread · 4 replies
I am new to this site, and a happy new corn snake owner! I am one of those people who will go crazy with anxiety before neglecting an animal -- I assume everyone on this site is one of those peopel:) -- and this is my first reptile so of course its a brand new experience. My questions are...
1) I got him yesterday, and I assume it is normal that he be hiding out since he is undoubtedly nervous and everything with the new environment, but nonetheless I need someone to tell me that that is normal. I am also curious because he has hidden in one tight spot the whole time, and this spot is on the warm side, and is it normal for a baby corn snake to stick on the warm side constantly instead of rotating around to thermoregulate?
2) I am bringing my corn snake with me to school, and that's from Florida to California, and I'm driving--what are your guys's suggestions on how to make the journey as comfortable for my corn snake as possible? Keeping in mind that he is new so isn't even comfortable with me yet -- he's been so tucked into his hiding spot that I haven't even handled him once -- so I couldn't put him in my shirt or something (a suggestion I read somewhere, to keep him warm).
3) I got both a lamp and a under-terrarium heater pad thing, and I plan to keep the lamp on in the day but turn it off at night and leave the heater pad thing on at all times. Is this the right idea?
Yes you're in a right place where people love animals too
As to your questions:
1) Yes it is normal that snakes hide at first because they're in a new environment and try to get used to it. I think in a while he will start exploring the cage quite actively. Its also normal that he hides on a warm spot all the time (he might be digesting food), but just in case I'd check if there is a comfortable temperature in his enclosure. The temperature should be 25 degrees by day and around 23 degrees at night.The basking area should be around 27 degrees C.
2)The main suggestion is that you watch your snake doesn't overheat. You can use a snake bag and keep it in small ice chest to help shield it from the ambient temperature. If you have to make a stop during the journey, park the car in shade and crack the windows. If you can't do that, hide the snake inside a fanny pack or purse (in the snake bag) and take it in with you. Remember to be careful, don't accidentally sit on it! Also make sure the snake has an opportunity to drink every night, and prepare several fanny packs since the pet can defecate on the way. I'd recommend that you don't feed him a week before the journey. By the way, I'd too recommend that you give him some time to get used to you before the trip, if possible. Otherwise the environment changing so fast can cause stress.
3) Yep it's a right idea since snakes are used to a cooler weather at night. In fact you could use the under terrarium pad only, even during the day.
I've found an interesting video that you may find useful.
Here it is
and here's what they say:
How to care for baby corn snakes... Corn snakes originated from North America. They are placid, non poisonous snakes and enjoy human contact, so make good pets. They grow to over a meter and can live for over 20 years.
Step 1. Housing and beddingYou will need a heat mat to keep the enclosure at the correct temperature. Baby corn snakes should be kept in a small ventilated enclosures for the first 6 months as they are scared of large spaces. Place a thermometer inside the tank to monitor the temperature. The tank should measure approximately 35 cm by 18 (14 in by 7). The heat source should be controlled by thermostat which is placed on the heat mat. The temperature should be 25C to 26C degrees by day, and 22C to 25C degrees at night.
Use newspaper, orchid bark or wood shavings as substrate to cover the floor of the tank. There should be a basking area by the heat source of 27 to 28C degrees. Provide a height for your snake which covers the heat source as well as being over the cooler area. Give your corn snake bottled water which to be changed every day and kept in a small shallow bowl.
Step 2. HandlingTo pick up the baby corn snake, let it see your flat hand so it knows you don't have food, and scoop it up by the middle of the body. Don't try to grab it behind the neck as it'll be threatened by this aggression and may bite.
Step 3. DietCorn snakes eat mice which should be bought frozen from a reptile shop or farm shop and defrosted in warm water. Remove the hide and offer the mouse nose to nose with the snake. You should use feeding tongs. Young snakes should be fed pinkies, mice which are about a week old. Feed your snake once a week with one mouse. If it fills up, it will retire quietly to digest the food. But if it searches for more food, give it another one. As the snake grows in size, the size of the mice will also increase.
Step 4. Exercise and playBaby corn snakes can be handled, but don't handle your snake for a few days after feeding as they don't enjoy moving around too much when digesting their food.
Step 5. CleaningClean the water bowl every day, and clean out its feces once or twice a week. Change the substrate at the bottom and clean the tank in a hyde with a reptile friendly disinfectant every month. Snakes shed their skin, so you do not need to wash them.
Step 6. HealthCorn snakes are prone to obesity such as this one here. Do not overfeed them. If old skin gets stuck to your snake around the eyes and tail after shedding, place it in a moss box. The wet moss will help the snake shed any remaining skin. If you snake puts on weight but isn't eating or you notice anything abnormal, take it to the vet. Make sure you wash your hands before and after handling your snake to prevent spreading bacteria such as salmonella.
Have fun with your corn snake!
Anonymous:i got my corn snake a few weeks ago and he is due to shed this week. so his eyes turn blue and his color turns dull like normal but 2 days later his eyes turn back to normal with no shed what did i do wrong please help
People are waiting to help.