Hi. One of my musk stinkpot turtles seems a little bloated. Ignore my most
recent previous posts about the whitishness as after I carefully examined my
turtles today that post seems incorrect. Please examine the following 4 photos of one of my musk stinkpot turtles to help me find out if the turtle
is sick (and if it is please tell me what the right treatment is (medication)) or just overfed or something?! The photos are at http://videoman.myphotoalbum.com . Click on the overhead turtle picture and
then click on the 4 thumbnails (one at a time) for a full screen picture of
the turtle. Picture labeled as 14 is at an angle so it (the bloating) seems
lopsided on one side and exaggerated but it really isn't - it's just the
photo angle. I did add a sulfa block today just in case. Please help - thank
you!
1 2 3
That looks like a really obese turtle! How much do you feed it and how much opportunity does it get for exercise?
-M
Dangerously high ammonia levels in the turtle's enclosure. Tear it down and clean it completely along with the filter.
Mix some ammonia chips into the filtration medium along with some charcoal after it is reassembled. Feeding your turtle in another tank will help to reduce this problem.
Cheers,
Kurt
Ammonia and nitrites test out at 0 (i.e. there is absolutely no ammonia in the tank and absolutely no nitrites in the tank), I appreciate your comment anyways though. If you had fully read my message you would have realized that even if ammonia levels were high all of my fish in that tank would have died a long time ago. I have checked information via searches about turtle diseases and nothing matches except maybe overfeeding. Could someone help me id this observation? Thanks all!
Thanks for the reply! It gets to eat around 4 reptomin sticks twice a day.
Once a week or so I feed it and the other turtles reptomin sticks covered in
reptovite instead to help prevent disease (shell rot, etc.). I put a variety
of greener vegetable matter (usually dark green romaine and/or mustard greens) in the tank.. I use a reptisun (I believe it is a 5.0) 40 watt 4
foot t12 light and one standard 40 watt 4 foot light, and 1 basking light
(zoo med, 75 watt, boy hot bulbs are sensitive to water - had one 7 inches
above the surface and it exploded this morning coincidentally but fortunately I removed all of the pieces before any creatures got hurt) which
I plan on having higher away from the water surface for now on. I have one
growing red ear slider which I plan on finding a new home for when it gets
too big for the tank - it seems to get along with the 3 (total) adolescent
musk stinkpot turtles, and I just introduced about 9-12 fancy guppies in the
4-5 inches deep water and everything seems fine otherwise. I just had to
reduce the ebo jagger water heaters to 80 degrees fahrenheit so the water
stays at a temperature of between approximately 75-80 (these heaters are
either not super accurate or the lcd battery free thermometer isn't accurate
(stick on outside of tank) as today's temperature was approximately 82 degrees fahrenheit and I don't want to overheat the musk stinkpots and I
know the red eared slider wouldn't might that high of a temperature though.
There is a tupperware island in the center of the tank off to the side, a
fluval msf 404 external filter is used for filtering the water and it is
connected inline to a biowheel pro 60 which works awesomely for biological
filtration. I have a lot of floating plastic plants in the tank and recently
added a chunk of pacific ocean driftwood to the right side of the tank and
some seashells (only to keep the water ph buffered at just over 7.0 (neutral)). Slate and miscellaneous rocks neutralize the buoyancy of the
tupperware island to prevent any turtles from getting caught under it and
drowning. I am very careful about what I do in the tank to prevent any trappings. There is a slate ramp which lets turtles bask dry and that slate
helps neutralize the buoyancy of the tupperware island too (leans on it).
The turtles don't seem to get much exercise when I think about it now - I
play with them twice a week and otherwise leave them to there own fun. Any
comments anyone?
Original Message

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: One of my musk stinkpot turtles seems to be a little bloated..
Hmm HUH I'm kind of bloated too, but I think it was those beers I drank! HEHE
Cindy
If you had fully read my message you would have realized that even if ammonia levels were high >all of my fish in that tank would have died a long time ago.

Thanks. I fully read your message of May 1st (again), which is the message I replied to. Nothing about fish there. Nothing that would lead me to believe you keep fish in the same enclosure with omnivorous turtles.
Good luck,
Kurt
Hi. One of my musk stinkpot turtles seems a little bloated.

It looks like your stinker is obese. I would cut back on the sticks or remove them from the diet completely and rely more on the vegetation. Have you noticed if the turtles are eating your guppies? I used to offer my stickpot ~5 really small feeder guppies every so often. The fish were small enough not to be too big of a meal, and he had to chase them for awhile and get exercise before he could catch them. They were fast little fish! Sometimes I offered a few dusted crickets, too. I only fed mine non-veg matter (turtle pellets, bugs, worms, or fish) 2x/week max.
griffin
Hi. One of my musk stinkpot turtles seems a little bloated.

It looks like your stinker is obese. I would cut back on the sticks or remove them from the diet ... a few dusted crickets, too. I only fed mine non-veg matter (turtle pellets, bugs, worms, or fish) 2x/week max. griffin

I only feed my turtles once per week....
Twice per day seems excessive!

K.
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