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The fact that the snake was in water only goes further to prove the fact that their answer about the snake being too hot and over heating, and the snake eating itself was in response to its being too HOT! As a snake will seek out water in its desperate attempt get somewhere cooler than the abmbient temperature of its surroundings when too hot. Funny enough, Humans often exhibit the same behavior on very hot days, when they too seek out water to take a nice cooling dip, by swimming in pools, rivers, and lakes, on very hot summer days. The very BEST advice anyone with any herpetology knowledge can advise a new beginning reptile owner, is:

1) To provide your captive reptile, a habitat that is double the size of what you believe it needs (if you have one snake, then provide enough space for two snakes versus one. If you have two snakes, provide enough space for four snake instead of two, and so on), to ensure it is not cramped.

2) Provide BOTH an area for your reptile to "sun" sufficently warm enough to properly digest its food. The required temperature level needed varies depending upon the reptile species. But, the heat source whatever it is (a Heat rock, or tempurature controled hot pad, and/or a sun lamp with the best light spectrum for your reptile's species as the amount of heat and light differs per species, with some requiring desert like temperatures in order for them to properly digest their food, to other species of reptiles that are unable to withstand too much light, or heat for too long, and if exposed too long, they can react poorly with results ranging from over heating (and self-biting or swallowing which can be deadly, to over sunning which can cause them to have increased stress, making them be more susceptible to diseases and illnesses, which can lead to a slow death) should be placed at one end of the reptiles' enclosure, with the enclosure that is large/long enough that the opposite end of the enclosure ALWAYS remains cool to the touch. Not room temperature, not slightly warm, BUT COOL, as in NO HEAT/Warmth is FELT when one touches the glass of their glass enclosure.

3) A water source should be placed all the way on that opposite side of the enclosure, far enough away from where the heat source is, that the water source REMAINS COLD/COOL through out the day, regardless of how warm/hot the other end of the enclosure gets, so that end does NOT get WARM or HOT! AND, that water source should be deep enough that the reptile (snake) can easily submerge its entire body with 1/4" or 1" or MORE of water to spare and have water still above its head! It is best to have a gradient level water source for most reptiles (again, do the RESEARCH so you know the EXACT habitat requirements of your specific reptile species, that's the minimum responsible care taking level, if you are going to keep a captive reptile). Meaning that the reptile (Snake) can lay with as little (none) to as much (its entire body, completely under water and with enough water to have water comfortably well above its head), of its body underwater as it desires. However, be sure to RESEARCH your specific reptile breed's needs. As, water requirements vary depending upon the species of reptile, from that of fully submersible in water, to others that need little water and only enough to flick their tongue and drink from a dish, to the opposite extreme and those that require a water source along with constant misting sprayers running which properly humidifiy the ambient air inside their enclosure so that their skin does not dehydrate (for some newts and frogs), again, it all depends upon the reptile breed.

4) The type of substrate within an enclosure is just as important of an issue as that of creating a constant hot zone and/or cold zone in order to allow the reptile to move between the two separate temperature extremes, based on its own individual needs, as that is the only way a reptile can regulate its body temperature. Since reptiles are unable to sweat or pant or otherwise, cool or warm itself. And, the substrate material within their enclosure, plays a vital roll in their overall comfort, stress, and longevity. There are reptiles which require sand, garavel, and pebbles for desert like conditions, to those that need soft leafy, soil like substrate with tree like limbs to climb, and foilage in which to hide, to those that prefer sand in which to partially or completely bury their bodies. The best thing you can possibly do for your new "pet" is to spend the time researching and learning, and more importantly to understanding its own unique habitat, and feeding requirements, and then ensuring that you do not just provide the reptile in your care, the minimum level of care necessary for its survival, but that you provide it with the maximum level of replication possible, to that of its own unique habitat. Because, by choosing to keeping it captive, you are agreeing to take on the serious responsibility of that reptile's continued quality of life, and ultimately for its existence and life or death!

I realize this is a VERY OLD post, and that the original issue described (that of self-biting, or self-swallowing), is one that has long since resolved itself, and could have only resulted in the snake having cooled down and lived, or becoming worse and dying, or the owner having possibly taken it to a Vet for assistance and treatment.

However, my reply is mostly for those other brand new, first time, inexperienced reptile owners, who may stumble upon this post in the future, so that they may hopefully, pick up enough insight from this post that they may avoid or resolve any similar issue on their own part.

GOOD LUCK to ALL of You & Your Reptiles if you have any!

Um actually that's what your supposed to do. Some snakes you can only feed once a month. Larger snakes go up to 4 weeks until feeding time. It depends on the size too. If it's a bigger snake and they were feeding it once a week it would get fat and unhealthy. If it's a smaller snake (which it most likely is) is needed. They aren't like humans who need food three times a day. Make sure to do more research next time when you are accusing someone.

What pun? I didn't see one at all. Pay close attention to all your pets as they cannot strip down or dress up like we can and it's almost cruel to allow this to happen as responsible snake owners should know the required temperature for their breed of snake and should keep an eye on humidity as well as temperature levels.
Wow! Your yipping? Do you know anything about snakes? Do you have a brain that you use? What are food cells? It has a very slow digestive track. You feed it too much and it dies.
it is right because snakes can get hot but even though its in water the habitat around it is still HOT so its using the water to help cool itself down but its not cool enough so its eating its tail

they only need food once a week don't freak out or not snakes there different types of animals in different types of a classification there and Fabians were mammals were all diffrent

Snakes have incredibly low metabolism meaning they only have to eat once in the while. This is due to the fact that they are slow moving and tend to eat very large prey. Depending on the snake itself is to how large its prey is.

Well you clearly aren't a snake owner.

Snakes have a really slow metabolism. In fact once a week feeding may actually be TOO much. Typically we feed ours every two weeks . Never has any odd behavior and has never bit me or my lady . 3.8 feet long now and only about 4 years old . Very healthy snake.

Snakes dont require a lot of food. In the wild some snakes eat once a month so once a week is more than enough food.
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